Arcos de la Frontera: Living Nativity (Belen Living)

As the orange glow of an icy Winter sun fell, delicately weaving it's intricate shadows throughout the narrow cobble stoned, white walled village of Arcos de la Frontera, the softly flame lit and palm tree adorned streets reminiscent of Bethlehem of Judea 2000 years ago, came to life.

The Saturday before Christmas each year, the picturesque cliff top village of Arcos de la Frontera in the Cadiz region of Spain transforms it's already historic streets into the Living Bethlehem (Belen Living), a spectacular display of twenty living nativity scenes depicting the birth of Jesus.

Arcos de la Frontera, or simply Arcos as it's known by locals, and now me, is anything but the typical fairy tale village that most guide books lazily describe it and EVERY white village in Spain, as - not sure exactly which fairy tale though???

The village of Arcos with her fortified stone walls and maze of narrow streets, sits atop a glorious mountain that majestically guards the surrounding area and oozes antique romance within each hidden nook.

As for the meaning of the name Arcos de la Frontera, I'll allow travel guru Rick Steves to explain:

Towns with "de la Frontera" in their names were established on the front line of the Christians' centuries-long fight to recapture Spain from the Moors, who were slowly pushed back into Africa.  Today, these hill towns- no longer strategic and no longer on any frontier - are just passing time peacefully. (Rick Steves)

Interestingly, only a few weeks earlier on a recent visit to Arcos, the Plaza de Cabildo, the central plateau for Belen Living was just a typical open air smothered parking lot, one that has become very familiar to most of us big beast driving Yanks stationed here, and one that I actually managed to, with 12-point turns, navigate out of, avoiding scratching my car any further.

But on this crisp evening, the stark concrete was replaced with tons of dirt, the cars with donkey's (actually ploughing), and the street lamps and trash cans were hidden amidst endless tall palm trees, burning fires and joyous laughter and music.

The Belen Living path itself strategically and meticulously led away from the Plaza de Cabildo and meandered it's way throughout the steep, often dark narrow streets.

The  sweet aroma of burning wax, roasted chestnuts and musty scent of live animals wafted through the cold night air, the rolling sounds of tambourines and Spanish voices darted off the stone walls, and the chatter of 20,000 or so visitors echoed throughout the normally quiet virtually untouched village.

At the mercardo (market) display, women donned in traditional costume flaunted and shouted fresh fish, squid and eel to passers by, cakes, breads and fruit were sprawled out on trays and baskets of vegetables toppled onto the cobblestone streets.  

As for the allure of Arcos outside of Belen Living, being a quick 35-40 minute drive from the Rota Naval Base, and host to the running of the bulls event in April, it is definitely a village worthy of spending a day exploring.

The, 'I Don't Want to Be a Typical Tourist' Tip:

As you enter Arcos off the 382, follow the signs towards Centro Ciudad (center of town) and down the hill towards the tourist/tourist bus parking lot, however DO NOT park there!

Why, because if you continue down the hill, you will traverse around the mountain and will be able to capture the beauty of Arcos village and the cliff face some 330 feet above you.

Continue driving (5 mins) and you will come into a residential area: the back tourist-free area of Arcos.  Turn left at the first roundabout and left again at the next roundabout.


Grab a park and start walking UP through the white gate.  

WARNING! 
Rather than the easy walk from the main tourist parking lot to the Plaza del Cabildo past tourist filled restaurants, you will climb STEEP cobble stoned streets and steps using only your internal GPS to reach the top, which by the way will look like it's a million miles away.

And, rather than dodge tourists, you will dodge children, mopeds and an assortment of happily wandering dogs.

The 'path' will traverse along the opposite cliff face that overlooks the stunning valley below, and in between gasping for breath (kidding?), let the delicious aromas of home cooking float into your belly.

Perhaps (actually definitely) stop at an intimate hole in the wall tapas bar and sip a cool drink, play street soccer with some kiddies coming out of school, and attempt to chat with the locals.

Or, if like us are in need of some fruit and toddler entertainment, buy some grapes at a 'tiny' store and after the sweet juice bursts out, roll them down the streets - they never stop!

Then, finally when you reach the top some 25-30 minutes later, aside from your legs burning and chest aching, you'll feel that ultimate sense of what the f*ck was I thinking accomplishment, especially once you place a cold beverage in your hand and admire the beauty of your surroundings.

Now, if you don't want to walk and have 'cajones' the size of basketballs, drive!

We decided to drive after our walk, and although each corner and street looked more narrow and mirror removing than the last, there was only one space that we looked at each other and said 'No way' and had to reverse out.

Otherwise, even our full-size vehicle albeit narrowly, made it through without a single scratch...that's excitement if you ask me!

What About the Kiddies?
Arcos is incredibly child friendly, although as with any of the narrow street white villages of Spain, keep your little ones at hand held distance or in hand, as the locals drive with out-of-control control and at the best of times we were pressed up against the wall or stepping into someone's front foyer as the cars passed.

As for the back route, well, we took our 3 year old both times, and although this route was fun for the first five minutes for him, I strongly suggest a light stroller, as it absolutely has got to be easier than carrying his whining a*s 99% of the way up.

I felt like my entire body was going to topple over with every step, and I'd just keep rolling....

THERE SHE GOES, WHERE SHE STOPS NOBODY KNOWS!

The Belen Living was truly one of the most visually and emotionally beautiful events that I have experienced since moving to Spain, one that we will return for every year that we are fortunate enough to be stationed here.

Crikey!